Everything you Need to Know About Chain-Link Fencing

The first UK Company to manufacture chain link was Barnard, Bishop and Barnard in 1844; the machines were similar in design to those used for weaving cloth, as the company had a long history in doing this.

Chain-link fences are made from galvanised or green PVC coated steel wire, woven into a zig zag pattern to create the familiar and popular diamond shaped fence. This type of fence is available commonly in heights varying between three and twelve feet.

The reason chain-link fencing is so popular is mostly due to its relative low cost and the ease of which it can be installed. A handy person could install a chain-link fence themselves without too much trouble using a how-to guide, and without needing to hire a professional fencer. Usually concrete and angle iron are the posts used with chain link, but timber posts can be used too, if preferred. It also, being a transparent style of fence, does not block out sunlight, and the open style makes it ideal for particularly windy and exposed areas.

Chain-link is a very versatile fence in its function; it is frequently used for security, animal enclosures, gardens, sporting grounds and much more!

Types of Chain-Link Fencing

Either galvanised or plastic coated, green is stocked but others are available. The majority of chainlink has a 50mm mesh size but others are available with 45mm used commonly for tennis courts.

It is sold by its height of the link and the diameter of the wire:


Normally 2.5mm or 3mm

Plastic coated:

Measured in the diameter of the outer and the inner core. Normally 2.5/1.7mm or 3.15/2.24mm

AVS stock the above in varying heights from 900mm to 1800mm in 25m rolls, others are available as specials. Each roll comes complete with the required amount of line wire.

Chain-Link on Angle Iron

Durable, light weight and concreting of the intermediates is optional, as they can be driven into the ground, therefore a quicker and easier fence to erect.

Painted angle iron posts are often supplied with a single coat only, therefore unless recoated will rust almost immediately. To prevent rusting the posts should be given an additional paint finish, prior to the chainlink being fitted.

Fittings and struts come complete with all straining post, usually all the fittings are fitted onto the posts with the strut loose. These components are similar to concrete other than the winder, which is not an eyebolt but a ferrule winder.

Chain-Link on Timber

A light weight and low cost option but not often used, only really suitable for a lighter weight chainlink; timber would have to be cut and drilled to suit, as not stocked, for strainers, with the option of machine rounded for inters driven in. The line wires can be stapled on evenly spaced between top and bottom edge of the fencing.

Chain-Link on Concrete

Concrete posts probably make the longest lasting fence, they are reasonably heavy and unlike angle iron posts have to be dug and concreted into the ground fully.

All fittings and struts are sold separately in the case of concrete (see chart below for details)

Components for straining posts:

Chain-Link Fixings

Joining Chain-Link

Chainlink can be joined together by butting the ends together, unwinding one of the end wires and then rewinding knitting the two rolls together.

Joining Chain-Link Fencing

Chain-Link Fencing Posts

Straining Posts

These are posts with a strut/s (diagonal brace) stopping the post from being pulled in the direction of the tension when either the ferrule winders or eye bolts to tension the wire.

Chain-Link Straining Posts

These are placed at all ends, corners and two ways for any changes of direction, strainers should be placed no more 69m apart.

For both concrete and angle iron posts they must be concreted into the ground, as they are the anchors for the fence and take the strain of the tensioned line wires. They are not sold as specific ends as they are interchangeable.

Intermediate Posts

Placed between 2.4m & 3m apart, angle iron can be driven in, concrete have to be dug in. These support the line wires that are tensioned by the straining posts.

When using a/i the line wire is threaded through the post, this can be done on concrete but the finish is better if it runs across the face of the post. Depending on the concrete posts, either stirrup wire or a hair pin staple is used to connect.

The intermediates should be positioned in a straight line between the straining posts. But if you really cannot avoid going round a radius you could use additional two ways or the intermediate posts can be closed up so they are between 1m & 2.5m apart depending on the severity of the radius. These posts should have additional concrete around their foundations and where it is feasible on external radius, back supports for intermediate posts should be positioned behind the fence line.

Fixing the Link

There are either 2 or 3 line wires which the chainlink is attached to, once the line wire has been tensioned; with a stretcher bar at each end of the tensioned link, this is done by knuckling, clips or ty wire.
Knuckling: Where the top of the chain-link has been folded over on itself to form the finished edge, it is called the knuckle. By opening up the knuckle every 300mm the link can be hung on the top line wire of the fence. Once strained, they can be closed up and the rest of the link fitted to the other line wires with clips or ty wire.
Clips: Also known as hog rings, netting clips are fitted individually with pliers. CL22 clips are sold in strips and fit an automatically fed gun.
Ty Wire: A thin metal wire either galvanised or plastic coated, cut into short lengths and tied/twisted to join link to line wire.

Quantity of Fixings Required for Chain-Link Posts

End Post Two-Way Corner
Fence Height (mm) Line Wire Stretcher Bar Angle Cleat Eye Bolt Euro Loop Stretcher Bar Angle Cleat Eye Bolt Euro Loop Stretcher Bar Angle Cleat Eye Bolt Euro Loop
900 2 1 2 2 ~ 2 4 2 2 2 4 4 ~
1050 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
1200 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
1400 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
1500 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
1800 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
2000 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
2100 3 1 3 3 ~ 2 6 3 3 2 6 6 ~
2400 4 1 4 4 ~ 2 8 4 4 2 8 8 ~
1800 + Vert Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 6 ~
2000 + Vert Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 12 ~
2100 + Vert Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 12 ~
2400 + Vert Ext 4 1 4 7 ~ 2 8 7 7 2 8 14 ~
1800 + Crank Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 9 3
2000 + Crank Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 9 3
2100 + Crank Ext 3 1 3 6 ~ 2 6 6 6 2 6 9 3
2400 + Crank Ext 4 1 4 7 ~ 2 8 7 7 2 8 11 3
Posts with cranked/vertical extensions, may also have 3 lines of either line or barbed wire, M8 x 30mm Bolts equal number of cleats.

Chain-Link Gates

An angle iron or tubular frame, clad with the matching chainlink to the fence run it is in. We do have a few in stock but most of the time these would be bought in special. They can be hung on both a/i or concrete posts, and these posts are referred to as gate end posts. In some instances of taller chainlink fences, there will be a panel above the gate this is called a lintel; it is used especially in tennis courts where the fence is say 2.4m high where you wouldn’t want a 2.4m high gate.

The addition of 3 rows of barb wire or line wire can be added to the fence, if higher than 1.8m, for additional security. The post is bought with the additional height to allow for this including winders to tension the wire. This addition is either vertical or cranked depending on the situation; if cranked it needs to be stated if the crank is inward or outward of the fence face.

Be aware other posts options are available, such as tubular steel.


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